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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.